Brown Wire = VCC (Voltage to Sensor) 5 volt – 12 volt from the ECU

Black Wire is the OUTPUT.  This is what PULSES and what the ECU Reads.  Send this to your Factory VSS pin on your ECU wiring or to a Digital Pulsed input if using an aftermarket ECU

Blue wire is the SENSOR GROUND.  Do not ground this to chassis, wire this to the ECU Sensor Ground

      Table, calendar Description automatically generated

Air Gap between the sensor and trigger wheel should be roughly 0.030” – 0.060” (try larger)

Crimp the pins using an “Open Barrel Style Crimping Tool” being careful to ensure there is adequate contact between the wire and barrel on the pin.  We have included and extra male and female pin with each kit…be careful!

Setup for your particular EMS is your responsibility, the procedure here will vary.  We do not have information on each particular system so please contact your EMS manufacturer for more info.

 

Please see the additional attached images that show some install photos.


HOW TO CALIBRATE YOUR SPEED


There is no plug and play setting for any ECU really, it depends on a few different factors.  


1 - Wheel diameter, depending on what size wheel you have on the rear....this calibration will change.  You can measure the circumference of the rear wheel to see how long (in distance) it takes to make one revolution.

2 - Lug Count.  After you measure the circumference, you can count how many wheel studs you are triggering off of.  If you have a 4 lug, you will have 4 pulses over the circumference of the wheel.


If you know the circumference of the wheel, you can figure out how many times that wheel needs to spin in one mile.  There are 63360 inches in one mile.  If your rear wheel has a 72" circumference, you have to spin that wheel 880 times over one mile.  If you have 4 lugs, multiply that by revolutions per mile to get PULSES per Mile.  Some ECUs will accept this....others you may have to measure or calculate slightly differently.


On a factory Honda ECU (Hondata, Neptune), the GROUND Wheel Speed will be somewhat close right out of the box....but the only adjustment you have is with the MISC --> ECU Speed and you will just adjust that up or down (positive or negative) until your actual speed matches ECU speed.

A cell phone with a GPS speed is probably the best way to match this up....or a linked AWD dyno can help you do the same.

I have also attached a starting point for an AEM V2 calibration on a FWD Honda with a 4 lug rear wheel (typical drag skinny)